October continues to be an intense month full of new adventures. After winning the Italian Lead Championship in Arco, I dedicated myself to a new project here in Trentino with Adam Ondra and Laura Rogora. We got together to bolt a new route and thus give birth to a new route for all (or almost all) climbers: Trentino is in fact a spectacular place to climb, full of places to climb and routes still to be bolted.
We went to a cliff at Castello di Drena, near Arco where I live, in a place I had never been to but which immediately fascinated me. Our goal was to spend two days here bolting a new route: Adam was the expert of the group, having already bolted several routes around the world, while for me it was just the second experience after Erebor at the Eremo. Absolute debut instead for Laura, who was very good in this first time.
We chose to start from an existing route called “Eye of the Tiger” and which reached the middle of the wall, from there we then started our bolting: so our route is an extension of “Eye of the Tiger”. The procedure is quite automatic: first you make the hole with a drill, then you push the bolt with a hammer, finally tighten it with the wrench. The important thing is to find a solid piece of rock that is not empty. Adam first climbed and bolted a part of the route with a drill, then I did a section and finally Laura too, alternating and starting from both the bottom and the top.
We stayed for two days, the first day we dedicated ourselves to bolting and then we took a try on the route to see what it was like, while on the second day we only climbed. When we bolted it we thought it wasn’t very difficult, in reality a probable 9a came out, so hard that none of the three managed to send it! We still have to name it but usually the name is given by the first one who manages to climb the route, so we will have to wait and try it again.
It was a wonderful experience, a via ferrata passes at the Castle of Drena and therefore many turists stopped to see what was happening. All of three of us are happy to have worked together to create this new route and to have aroused the interest of other climbers. Trentino is a paradise, I decided to live here and helping to create a new route in these splendid cliffs makes me proud!